Wednesday, October 21, 2009

A Perfect August Night, in October



On a crisp autumn night, cozied in the middle of the west village, I spotted an old-fashioned lantern glowing onto a rustic wooden sign, chiseled with a picture of beets and the word "August."  Through the glass front of the restaurant, a low, warm, welcoming, amber glow beckoned me inside. 

The light was coming from a wood-burning oven in the back of a homey and rustic dining room.

We walked through the front dining area that opened up into an outdoor atrium, enclosed by a glass ceiling and walls.  When I stepped onto the cobblestone floor, I was transported to a European countryside.  The walls looked like country stone and were lined with vibrant greenery.  

There were no white linen table clothes, which the food could have easily commanded.  We sat down to tables that resembled finished cutting boards, so we didn't mind that when the bread came out there were no plates.  We broke it by hand and perused the unintimidating yet thorough wine list, which covered different regions of Germany, Austria, France, Italy, and Spain.  

Terrence Gallivan's restaurant is a medley of regional European fare that extends from the Mediterranean to Northern Europe.   The menu frequently changes and strictly showcases seasonal and local ingredients.  Like the menu, the dishes were concise and consisted of a few flavors that complemented each other.

For appetizers, the Roasted Delicata Squash Soup had spicy marshmallows and a balsamic drizzle that intensified the flavor of the squash. Baked in the wood-fired oven, the base of the Tarte Flambé was like soft pizza dough, lightly drizzled with crème fraiche, and topped with the blissfully sweet and salty marriage of caramelized onions and bacon.  The showstopper was the Ricotta Ginepro Panna Cotta, slightly salty and smoky, accompanied by a warm wild mushroom salad and truffled vinaigrette.   I would soon pay for this $14 appetizer again.

The entrees offered an Oxtail Bolognese and a whole roasted Dorade. I enjoyed the overwhelming rosemary perfume from the Rosemary and Juniper Braised Rabbit; however, a more sensitive nose may not. Surrounded by slightly dense chestnut gnocchi and delicious braising liquid, the rabbit was fork tender. A Leg of Goat was paired with light dumplings, succulent prunes and smoky eggplant that were devoured in minutes.  Also smoky was the potato terrine that accompanied a perfectly cooked Beef Ribeye, sherry braised onions and a marrow béarnaise sauce.  On the side were braised artichoke hearts, which remained on the side.

Finally, the season of autumn was captured in the flavors of the moist marzipan cake with pumpkin gelato and poached pears.  Chocolate Pot de Crème was creamy and chocolaty, just what was expected of it. The White Chocolate Goat Cheese Cake with gingersnap crust and candied lemon was the perfect ending to the meal.  

Like the month of August, the restaurant promises an unforgettable, romantic and comfortable night, meant to be shared with loved ones.  

 

Superiore” 

xo, Cosmo Chef

Hand Gesture Rating System


Hand Gesture Rating System

I’m an Italian-American and I express myself with my hands.  There is no more appropriate or truthful way for me to rate food than to gesture with my hands (especially when my mouth is full).

Perfecto” – Two hands waving from side to side. 

 

This signals a perfect experience at a restaurant. Perfect in the categories of food, presentation, service, wine list, ambiance, and décor.  It is the best possible score for a restaurant.

Superiore” – Two hands up, not moving. 

 

A far superior experience at a restaurant.  May not be perfect in every category listed above.

 

 

Delicioso” – One hand waving from side to side. 

 

This signals an above average restaurant experience.  Is not perfect in more than one category listed above, but has something special about it and is enjoyable.

Buono” – One hand up, not moving. 

 

This signals an average, yet pleasant restaurant experience.


xo, Cosmo Chef

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Culinary Pros Keep on Truckin'




They are everywhere.  They're on your street corner.  They come back to your office at lunchtime.  They're on the news, in the paper, on talk shows, on your favorite food blog, and they even have their own awards ceremony.   They are the gourmet food vending trucks of New York City.

In the past year, it seems as if the streets of NYC have exploded with brightly colored trucks, adorned with a gourmet menu, and a permanent line of impatient and hungry New York customers. Many of us are wondering who these trucks are and why are they so popular?

The food vendors of NYC have come a long way from the lowly "dirty water hotdog" stands.  Culinary professionals have left the kitchen of high-end (and high priced) restaurants and hit the streets.  For some NYC restaurant cooks, it was a response to the harsh economy; others just wanted to get in on the action.  Either way, NYC has given birth to a new breed: the gourmet food vendors.  No longer do they serve high-end foodie diners.  They now feed the average NYC pedestrian.  They merge basic street food rules, of serving cheap and easy-to-eat street food, with a professional mentality to put forth the best food possible.  

The diversity of these trucks was displayed September 26th at the 5th annual Vendy Awards. The event was initiated five years ago as a fundraiser to support the Street Vendor Project (a nonprofit organization that represents all food and merchandise vendors of NYC).  This year, the tickets to the event sold out online for the first time (at $80 a piece).  It was aired on Good Morning America, NBC news and the BBC, and had an esteemed panel of celebrity judges, including Jacques Torres.


I made a rookie mistake when visiting the food truck dubbed the 2009 Rookie Vendy Award winner.  When I arrived to the scene on Madison Avenue there were mobs of businessmen and women, and on every street corner, standard, monotone, greasy food vendors were stationed.  When I looked to the corner that Schnitzel and Things should be on, I saw a colorful truck much more lively than the others.  The only way to locate the truck is to follow them on Twitter or Facebook, which noted they would be there from 11:30-2:30.  I was greeted by one of the owners, Oleg, who informed me that the truck just closed.  He warned me that I should arrive no later than 11:00am. Their truck provides three varieties of schnitzel: chicken, pork and cod, or a schnitzel burger (their newest addition) with a choice of two side dishes.  The FCI culinary grad, who lived in Austria for one year, takes pride in his product: "We make everything that day and use the freshest ingredients, which I think people really appreciate."  They make everything on the truck immediately before lunch service, which only gives them so much room.  When the food runs out, you are schnitzel out of luck.

Oleg regrettably yet proudly informed me that I would not be able to catch them at their normal spot on Wall Street the next day.  They would be shooting a national commercial with T-Mobile.  "It's crazy," he said, "When I opened the truck I could never have imagined being asked to do a commercial.  I can't believe it."  

Other successful gourmet food vending trucks include chef Mohammed Rahman’s (previously of the Russian Tea Room) Kwik Meal cart, which boasts the best falafels in town. Jerome Chang’s (former pastry sous chef from Le Cirque) Dessert Truck promises gourmet desserts such as Warm Chocolate Bread Pudding and Vanilla Crème Brule.  The Big Gay Ice Cream Truck has the most inventive soft serve ice cream toppings such as curried coconut, wasabi pea dust, Trix cereal, sea salt and extra virgin olive oil.  The Van Leeuween Artisan Ice Cream Truck offers a product made from the freshest, local organic ingredients.  As you can see, these are not the Mr. Softee ice cream trucks we grew up with.

With a fresh new idea, gourmet standards, a (hard to come by) street permit and a truck, you are on your way to joining this trendy group of street food revolutionaries.  They are exploring new avenues in the food industry and they’ve only just begun their journey.